Lake
Tahoe is the drop dead beautiful centerpiece of my youth, and after a few years
away from it, I rode along a stretch of highway along its north shore on a
recent bike ride.
In
the mornings of warm summer days, the deep blue majesty of this lake is like a
high altitude mountain pool of consciousness, something vast, calm and
spiritual to behold. It is in these early summer mornings when its surface is
as smooth as a mirror, all is calm, before afternoon winds whipping off the
mountains looking down from the west, rough it up. Within its perimeter of 72
miles, and its millions of acre-feet of melted snow, the lake is a quiet giant
of nature in the morning hours. It is a sight that requires more than a few
minutes to fully comprehend as one standing at its edge, scans its wide, blue,
quiet surface.
I
lived at Lake Tahoe from 1959 to 1971, from young kid to mid-teens, then spent
weekends during many summers at our house there in subsequent years. Through
those years, it became a touchstone, a powerful reference point of my growing
up years and all the drama they contained. We had a great hardback history book
on Tahoe, called “The Saga of Lake Tahoe,” by Edward Scott, which came out in
the late 50s and covered with text and many old black and white photographs,
the human footprints made at Tahoe -- especially those of profit-minded white
men -- since the mid 1800s.
The
Washoe Indians were the first recorded humans to bask in the glorious Tahoe
summers. For centuries they escaped the summer heat of the Washoe Valley, which
sits below the mountains on the east side of the lake. Explorer John Fremont was
the first white guy to see the lake in 1844 and it no doubt blew his mind. I
always wanted to see the face of the first human, probably a Washoe Indian,
that laid eyes on the lake hundreds of years before that. What a discovery that
must have been. A huge mountain lake, edged by hugely tall forests of fir, pine
and cedar, all untouched by man. What would he or she have said? I like to
think it was Washoe language version of “Holy fuuuuck!!!!” or if a Washoe squaw, “Isn’t this lovely!”
The
Washoe Indians lived in harmony with the lake, hanging out there during its pleasantly
warm weather summers, hunting and fishing.
But
when the white men came barging in with their big plans, the shameless plundering
of the lake basin’s forests and its trout filled clear blue waters of
unspeakable beauty, began. They drove out the Indians, and because the silver
mines in Virginia City, in the Nevada desert to the northeast, required lumber to
frame and support the mineshafts from 1858 to 1890, much of the forests in the
basin were clear-cut by rag tag crews of loggers using long two-handled saws. Teams
of horses dragged the felled trees to nearby sawmills. These lumber men
butchered the native forests mercilessly, leaving acres of stumps and triggering
soil erosion that began the slow but measurable decline of the lake’s legendary
clarity.
But
amazingly, in about 60 years, the basin’s ecosystem managed to heal itself from
the clear cutting gashes it suffered. Second growth forests grew back in many
of the logged out areas, though the trees aren’t as tall and wide as those in
the original growth forests. The scruffy early settlers in the 1800s also
managed to fish out all the native trout in the lake, setting up fish canneries
that eventually shuttered when there were no more fish left. Gee, we never
thought we’d all but wipe out the trout population. Brilliant.
To
keep fishing alive trout plants were eventually dumped in the lake as well as plants
that were non native species: Mackinaw trout and kokanee freshwater salmon.
Mackinaws
were brought in from the Great Lakes in 1886, and being a large deep water trout
happy to eat smaller fish in the lake, these big boys promptly ate all the
remaining native Lahontan cutthroats. Another brilliant move. Mackinaws are
still the big fish to catch by Tahoe anglers on their own in boats or with the
help of guides. Kokanees were in a Tahoe City fish hatchery in 1944 when
holding ponds accidentally overflowed, spilling the freshwater salmon from the
Pacific Northwest into Tahoe, where they’ve been spawning primarily in Taylor
Creek on the south shore ever since.
Gambling
casinos were built on the Nevada side of the state lines in north and south
Tahoe in the 1940s. To this day they attract gamblers to the area with little
or no interest in the stunning natural beauty of the area. Dreaming of making
the big score, they’d rather spend all their Tahoe time in the smoke filled
casinos, sloshing booze, squinting at sleazy lounge shows and losing money on
the craps tables, playing 21, keno, or pulling down no yield slot machine
handles through the night, only to drive home somewhere below Tahoe, broke,
with murderous hangovers.
But if I'm coming clean, I owe my years growing up in Tahoe to the casinos. Because one of them, Harrah's Club, on the south shore, in 1959 hired my dad to play upright bass -- he was a professional bass player in Los Angeles -- in their South Shore Room house orchestra. He was no fan of LA and loved the mountains and the lake. He decided that's where we were going to live, and moved my mom, two older sisters and me, up there. Our first stop was in a double-wide mobile home in Oliver's trailer park. It had no frills dirt roads and a loose grid of trailer spaces among sparse pines. Denizens were mostly club worker neighbors, many of whom worked all night and slept all day. "Tortilla Flat" was my mom's name for it. Good call.
But if I'm coming clean, I owe my years growing up in Tahoe to the casinos. Because one of them, Harrah's Club, on the south shore, in 1959 hired my dad to play upright bass -- he was a professional bass player in Los Angeles -- in their South Shore Room house orchestra. He was no fan of LA and loved the mountains and the lake. He decided that's where we were going to live, and moved my mom, two older sisters and me, up there. Our first stop was in a double-wide mobile home in Oliver's trailer park. It had no frills dirt roads and a loose grid of trailer spaces among sparse pines. Denizens were mostly club worker neighbors, many of whom worked all night and slept all day. "Tortilla Flat" was my mom's name for it. Good call.
Broken
down abandoned cars owned by skunked gamblers were common in Tahoe in the 1960s,
their humiliated owners figuring it was easier to go home by bus than deal with
a broken down car. These days, Tahoe casinos have been hit hard by a double smack down in
their popularity by all the Indian casinos that have seriously eroded their
market share, along with a longstanding economic recession.
But through redevelopment, the look of South Lake Tahoe has been cleaned up immensely from the “Tijuana of the Sierras” look it had in the 60s when the California side of the south shore was rife with crummy hotels and ramshackle apartments in the club worker pine forest ghettos. Adding to the tackiness was beat up pavement on the main drag of Highway 50 sporting no shortage of trinket and t-shirt shops. Now there are bike paths, modern upgraded shopping areas, a tramway up the mountain to Heavenly Valley and there's a look and feel somewhat more befitting a small alpine city sitting in a world-class destination.
But through redevelopment, the look of South Lake Tahoe has been cleaned up immensely from the “Tijuana of the Sierras” look it had in the 60s when the California side of the south shore was rife with crummy hotels and ramshackle apartments in the club worker pine forest ghettos. Adding to the tackiness was beat up pavement on the main drag of Highway 50 sporting no shortage of trinket and t-shirt shops. Now there are bike paths, modern upgraded shopping areas, a tramway up the mountain to Heavenly Valley and there's a look and feel somewhat more befitting a small alpine city sitting in a world-class destination.
Over
the years, development by rich landowners included mansions in choice secluded shoreline
spots around the lake. But most of the housing early on in the mainstream discovery
of the lake was lodges and cabins used during the spectacular Tahoe summers of
crisp air and moderate heat. Winters would shoo away vacationers, but the
development of ski resorts like Heavenly Valley on the south shore, along with
the gaming industry, rounded out a seasonal tourist economy. Heavenly’s
contribution to the erosion problem came with cutting down trees growing on the
Southeast shore mountain face to make ski runs. Left was the unmistakable dirt scar visible
from across the lake called the Gun Barrel.
As highways were improved and widened to four lanes along the east shore, housing developments started getting built in the 1960s. The 1960 Winter Olympics held at Squaw Valley made the Tahoe area a world stage, even through Squaw is just outside of the Tahoe basin on its northwest side.
As highways were improved and widened to four lanes along the east shore, housing developments started getting built in the 1960s. The 1960 Winter Olympics held at Squaw Valley made the Tahoe area a world stage, even through Squaw is just outside of the Tahoe basin on its northwest side.
The
conservation movement of the lake’s environment began in earnest in the 1960s,
with studies beginning to see how deep a white plate could be seen in the water
when dropped on a metered pole from a boat. Erosion from development ---
causing oxygen-eating, water warming nutrients to flow into the lake from its
feeder streams, and algae growth – was identified as the biggest factor in the
lake’s steadily declining clarity. Oops.
So
development moratoriums were put in place and construction permits limited to a
lottery and waiting lists to slow down the erosion effects of development. My
parents built a house on the Nevada side of the south shore in 1963 before any
development moratoriums were in place. So our family was part of the problem in
erosion promoting development. Ironically my mom was the executive secretary
for the Lake Tahoe Area Council, a now defunct nonprofit that worked to combat erosion-causing development in the basin. Since then, the
federal government has stepped in to fund more studies of the lake, including
an underwater topographical map of the lake’s bottom, and maps showing its
various depths and temperatures in different parts of the lake. Now, tourists can
look at an outdoor display in shoreline public spots such as Kings Beach on
the north end, recounting the ongoing battle to keep Tahoe’s deep blue
waters from become green, murky and choked with algae.
After
that north shore bike ride a few months earlier, I got on my road bike and rode the 72 mile perimeter of Lake Tahoe with a riding buddy. I’ve been on that route many times in a car, but always wanted to see what it would be like on a bike. Early
in the ride, which we started at Stateline on the Nevada side of the south
shore, we got to the unpopulated woods of the southwest shore that flank the
winding two lane Highway 89. There, I was happy to learn the obvious: On a bike you can look up to see a stunning
view the mountains that a car with a roof doesn’t afford. Looking up we saw the
vertical face of Mount Tallac. Tallac is about 9,000 feet high, up about 3,000
feet from the lake level, and is an incredible day hike I’ve done many times
over the years. The view from the top of Tallac is like being in an airplane,
showing nearly the entire surface of the lake.
As we continued riding switchbacks approaching Emerald Bay there were
the sweeping views looking northeast over the lake. These are jaw dropping
world class vistas of vast blue water, blue sky and green forest. Continuing
north on the west shore, we rode by Meeks Bay Resort, where as a young teen I
worked for three straight summers on the maintenance crew. Now it is less
cluttered and still offers a great shoreside view of the mountains on southwest shore of the
lake. We rode north several more miles through Tahoe City, where I’d spent a
college summer working as a reporter at the Tahoe World weekly newspaper, which
is now long gone. We headed east at the north side of the lake and rode
through Incline Village’s Shoreline Drive, where many rich people have built mansions. Starting to head south on the east side of the lake we climbed the winding two lane road to Spooner
Summit. Then a descent past Glenbrook and I saw the wide spot in the road where my dad and
I used to hike down to an isolated deep water fishing spot on a huge
granite boulder.
We
rode through the granite tunnel at Cave Rock and by its much improved parking
lot and boat landing where I fished from the rocks with my Dad and boyhood friends. The old Manny’s, a greasy spoon hamburger joint that was there all
through my childhood was no longer there, probably a good thing.
We
rode by my elementary school, and then by the neighborhood I grew up in, the corporate version of the once mom and pop store where I used to catch my bus to school. A
few miles later we passed the road down to our favorite beach. And not much farther ahead we rode past the old
Rabe’s meadow, just down the hill from the site of what was Oliver's trailer park where we first lived upon moving to Tahoe. And in a flash we were back to our starting point at a casino parking lot at Stateline.
A
wonderful statement of Nature, Lake Tahoe is. Its power of mass and sheer beauty has
moved many to see it with eyes filled with wonder and awe. May its residents
now and in the future protect its beauty, its clarity, its trees, its beaches and
clear fresh air from the ravages of uncaring populations of previous
generations. Tahoe was taken for granted by too many environmentally
unconscious people for too many decades. But it has managed, with help, to
recover very slowly from its man-inflicted wounds. May that encouraging trend
continue.
Mark Eric Larson has written two books of essays, "The NERVE...of Some People's Kids," and "Don't Force it, Get a Bigger Hammer. To read, visit:
http://www.scribd.com/Mark%20Eric%20Larson/shelf
http://www.scribd.com/Mark%20Eric%20Larson/shelf